Yeah, part 2 of Resinwerks with +Danielle Baker at Nomadic Notions was just as fun and informative as last week.
Today's class focused on making pendants and other components using glass cabochons and Diamond Glaze. Materials list was fairly simple...besides the cabochons and Diamond Glaze you needed: decorative paper or photo or whatever material you wanted to encase in the cabochon; wax paper, Mod Podge, scissors.
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| The most preferred brand and often referred to |
What is Diamond Glaze?
It is a dimensional adhesive that dries to a clear glass-like finish. It securely holds Vellum, glass beads, glitter and many other mediums! Unlike other clear adhesives, Diamond Glaze is mixable with dye-based inks, watercolor, and pearlescent pigments. What artist studio would be complete without Diamond Glaze? This dimensional adhesive dries to a clear glass-like finish. You can use it directly over your artwork to create a raised finish, or use it as a glue to attach beads and glitter. Diamond Glaze is water-soluble when wet, but once dry, it is permanent, and difficult to remove. The manufacturer recommends covering any work surface while using this product. This versatile adhesive also mixes well with dye-based inks, watercolor, pearlescent pigments, and pastel chalks. A thin layer will dry quickly, but a thicker layer may take hours to dry, depending upon the humidity. It comes in a 2 fl. Oz. bottle, with a fine tipped applicator.
Tips for using Diamond Glaze as taken from Beading Daily...
1.
Turn the glaze bottle upside down for a minute or two so the
bubbles can go up and away from the applicator tip before you squirt it out.
Squeeze a bit of the glaze onto a scrap piece of paper so the bubbles that are
in the tip can come out on the paper, not your piece. If you still end up with
bubbles in your piece, you can use a pin to drag each one to the edge of the
work, allowing them to pop. If you still can’t make them pop, wave a match over
the top of the piece to make the bubbles rise; then you can drag them more
easily to the edge
2. When working with paper and adhesive glaze,
seal
the paper with acrylic sealer (you know—the stuff we used to decoupage
magazine cut-outs onto charred wood in the 1960s?) first, both front and back;
let thoroughly dry. This will ensure that the water from the glaze won’t be
absorbed into the paper, possibly smearing the printed colors. I can’t tell you
how important this is!
3. If you’re adding a paper image to a bezel that you’ll then be covering
with glaze, make sure to
glue the paper to the bezel and let
dry before you cover it with glaze. This way the paper won’t float up to the top
of the glaze.
4. The fact that the glaze is water-based has its upside and downside. The
downside is that it isn’t waterproof, which is a bit of a problem for jewelry;
you need to design accordingly. The upside is that
if you’re doing a
collage and totally mess up, you can soak the finding you’re working with in
water, dig out the contents, and start over with the same finding.
5.
Work in a well-ventilated area, no matter what kind of
glue product you’re using. Save the buzz for a delicious Mad Men-style martini
lunch with a side of cottage-cheese-and-walnuts-infused green Jello mold
instead.
This process was much less time consuming than making the pendants with the ice resin and bezels...no curing time only time for the glaze to dry.
I've searched Michael's, Hobby Lobby and JoAnn's Fabric store and finding JudiKens Diamond Glaze is next to impossible...so the question was what are the other alternatives to using the JudiKens brand...here are some other options...I haven't used them so I can't vouch for quality or how they compare to JudiKens...Glossy Accents (by Ranger), 3D
Crystal Lacquer (by Sakura),
Royal Coat Dimensional Magic (by Plaid), Aleene's Paper Glaze (Duncan) and Liquid Embossing (All Night Media)
Here are the samples of my efforts...just need to add the bail. For one of them I'm going to make my own bail.
One of the things that makes this process more fun is doing them with a group of people who also enjoy it. You get to see other ideas of how to use the products and layout your pieces...
Next up is Advanced Resinwerks where we'll learn how to make our own molds, adding color and other advance techniques.